What are those funny little cookies that look like mini hamburgers in an assortment of colours? I saw them on our visit to Paris, at every little sidewalk baker and cafe. Our favorite place to stop every morning before a full day of sightseeing was Paul’s. We were so obsessed with the croissants, we barely gave those odd hamburger cookies a moments notice. Frankly, I didn’t think they looked that appetizing. And, I thought they were a little ugly. (Like Uggs until they were all the rage. Or Birkenstocks). We probably passed the Laduree shop several times as we walked the Champs élysées oohing and awing. We visited the Elie Saab boutique and Louis Vuitton and Chloe but walked right past Laduree, the inventor of the macaron as we know it today. Two little almond meringue cookies with a flavoured filling sandwiched between. The macaron was actually born in Italy and somehow made its way to France. It was at La Masion Laduree that they began to sandwich a filling between the two cookies.
It wasn’t until we returned home that we started to see the emergence of this sweet, glorious, haute cuisine delight in our little village. Maybe it was there all the time, we just didn’t have any interest in it. Not unlike the time Mike bought us a brand new car. A Sable. I’d never seen one or heard of it before. Ours was a rich deep wine color and I thought I’d acquired at Jag. Until I started to drive it and realized there was a Sable on every corner… almost.
Once we were aware that this little French delicacy was taking over from the cupcake, we had to be on board. We’re nothing, if not on top of the food and fashion trends. When I say ‘we’, I’m talking about my daughter and I. We examined them when we had the pleasure of tasting them at various events. Well, we must make some, we decided. We will not be left behind. We were already making pies, cakes, cupcakes, sugar cookies and selling them to connoisseurs of fine baking in our circle of friends. I mean, how hard can it be???
Quite. As it turns out. They are very finicky little things. Mostly because of the egg whites or the meringue texture of them. It’s actually much easier to just make meringues. But no, let’s complicate this…it mustn’t be easy. We can’t have every Tom, Dick and Geri making them. You have to beat egg whites with sugar and egg albumen to the perfect consistency. Not too little and not too much. You have to sift, several times, the already fine icing sugar and almond flour. I mean..
Who tried this out for the first time? Apparently King Louis XIV ate macarons at his wedding in 1660. Who knew? They were individual cookies back then. No filling. No sandwiches. So someone just decided to put these ingredients together and noticed that very often the cookies ended up with this frilly little base that is now called a foot. And that foot is everything. I mean, EVERYTHING! What probably started out as a mistake is now the measuring stick for success. So actually I am possibly trying to replicate someone else’s mistake. Very often my macarons look like they have hobbit feet. They still taste delish but they are not haute cuisine at this point. They are just peasant dessert.
Next, you have to do something called macaronage. There are many different theories as to how many times you have to fold the batter into the centre of the bowl to create the perfect consistently. It should end up flowing like slow moving lava. What if I’ve never seen slow moving lava? What then? Some instructions suggest or should drop from the spatula like a continuous thin ribbon. I can relate to that. But do not over mix or death quell. The eggs should be room temperature. They should be older. You have to tap the cookie sheets on the counter to get rid of air bubbles and prevent the tops of the cookies from cracking. You must cook on low temperature so the cookies don’t discolour. But not under bake them. Rumour has it… Ok, I actually heard her say it… that the owner of the Duchess Bakery in Edmonton used to bake her macarons in a toaster oven because that’s all she had, which leads me to believe the finesse is in the preparation of the batter.
I have made these delightful little delicacies with a modicum of success over the past ten years. Tossed many batches of macarons out for fear someone would guess that I am unable to tame these little beasts. The ingredients are delicious so they never taste bad, you just can’t serve them up and call them macarons. Mastering these little dessert hamburgers is the bain of my culinary existence. My Waterloo. Did I mention that the level of humidity in the air also can seriously affect these little buggers? I mean, burgers.
I just can’t base my whole self esteem on whether my macarons turn out on any given day. I’ll just keep making them. Sometimes they are lovely and sometimes not. I’m going to invent a dessert using mutant macarons and I’ll be famous.
To Be Continued

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